The Countess Howe Gown Project (ca. 1764) A journey back in time ~ PART 2

In this next installment of the project to re-create the ensemble in Gainsborough's beautiful painting of Countess Howe, all the undergarments are now completed, and Marguerite (the mannequin) is dressed, ready to be fitted out further. 

​​But first, for reference, here is another copy of Gainsborough's magnificent portrait of Lady Mary Howe, which I've digitally cropped in order to focus on the garments: 

And here is Marguerite in her underthings: 

• Ca. 1760-70 replica linen shift (with its narrower sleeves and no lace edging)
• Silk brocade stays
• New silk under-petticoat
• Silk side hoops

​(Click on "Read More" at right below, to continue...)

To seam or not to seam?​  The first technical problem in making the gown's petticoat had to do with the width of the silk fabric.  At 90cm (36"), it was an awkward width to turn into an 18thC. petticoat without either making the garment far too full, or wasting far too much of the beautiful silk.  

Anyone familiar with 18thC. dressmaking may know that silk textiles were produced in much narrower widths then than they are now.  Widths of about 23" were common, so petticoats would typically be made with 3 front and 3 back panels (i.e. 2 seams at side front and side back, and a seam at each side to allow for pocket openings). 

Some people today create narrow false seams in 150cm (60") wide modern silk fabric to mimic this construction.  I personally don't see the point of doing this, as the original 18thC. intention was to make the most economical use possible of the costly fabrics.  I believe that this approach is one of the hallmarks of 18thC. garment construction that should be carried over to today.  If gown makers in the 1700's had had the luxury of wide fabrics, they would have avoided seams in any place they weren't needed.  

So in the spirit of 18thC. dressmakers, I decided the best use of my silk was to use one complete 90cm panel for the centre front area of my petticoat (in order to avoid making a seam down centre front), and two half-width panels for each side of the front.  This would require two side-front seams, but would leave the lengthwise selvedges available to create the petticoat's side seams (and pocket openings).  In other words, the half-panels could be positioned so that their raw lengthwise cut edges could be seamed to the selvedges of the front panel.  

Rather than repeating this concept for the back of the petticoat, I simply used two full 90cm widths, with a centre back seam, leaving the two selvedges for the side seams.  This meant that the back and front total widths would match, and I could pleat the front in such a way as to mask the two side-front seams.  Here are basic diagrams of the front and back construction, in case you also find yourself one day with 90cm (36") wide silk! 

Of course, wider modern silks don't present the same problem: a nicely shaped petticoat can be made out of just two lengthwise panels of 132-152cm (52" to 60") wide fabric, with the joining seams of the selvedges placed at the sides (to facilitate the pocket openings). 

Level Headed:  Next came the levelling of the petticoat.  Now, I know of three different methods that modern costumers have adopted for this procedure, at least one of which requires what seems like advanced mathematical prowess.  I am not that person.  I've developed my own technique, which is simple (very little math required), quick (no complicated adjustments at the top), and has been effective for all the petticoats I've made, whatever size or shape the underpinnings may be.   

I'll be making a proper, fully annotated video of this process soon, but for the moment, here are the basic steps in order: 

The one slight drawback to this method is that you may need to re-sew the very top of a seam or two if you didn't use a backstitch to sew them.  This will keep the top edges in place while you pleat and add the waist tape. 

Playing with Pleats:   I have to admit I love this part of the process.  The garment really begins to come alive once the pleating is finished.  My usual procedure for a silk petticoat is to create an outward box-pleat at centre front, then pleat away from it toward the pocket openings on each side, keeping the pleats relatively even. 

For the back of the petticoat, I like to make an inverted box pleat to produce more fullness -- in this case it also helped to hide the centre back seam.  Be sure to allow for a little bit of an overlap of front-over-back on each side of the petticoat top at the pocket openings, to avoid gaping.  A 1.5 to 2.0cm (1/2" to 3/4") overlap is enough. 

The following photos, showing the petticoat pleating.  The hem of course has not yet been turned up (and a bit of a breeze was blowing the fabric around too!):

Petticoat centre front, with box pleat pinned in place.

Centre back. An inverted box pleat hides the C.B. seam and creates fullness.

Pocket openings, with slight front-to-back overlap

Front, with completed pleating pinned in place.

Back, with completed pleating.

Next, I'm off to hem the petticoat and complete the top with a waist tape, apply the furbelow(s), then begin the process of draping the gown itself.  PART 3 to follow soon...