Although those of us who have worn 18th century stays are familiar with the usual way these are spiral-laced, there can be a problem with stays that are back-laced only, if no one else is around to act as a helper or dresser. I personally prefer back-lacing stays for their smooth, firm and comfortable solid fronts. But getting spiral lacing done up properly and firmly on one's own in back-lacing stays can either require a feat of contortionism or a valiant surrender to a less-than-ideal silhouette. Some time ago, mostly out of necessity because my "helper" husband was having an almost excruciating time: (a) trying to understand the physics of spiral lacing; and (b) trying to actually do up the lacing effectively, I devised a bit of a cheating lacing system -- what some might call an 18th century lacing "hack". If you've visited my Facebook page, you'll likely have seen the video below, but I'm hoping it may be worth repeating here. Many people attend historic events or occasions without having a dresser on hand, and this do-it-yourself procedure of lacing up stays will make it possible to lace up stays reasonably well on your own that are only laced at back. Obviously, stays designs with front lacing completely avoid this issue, but not everyone wants to have to make another pair of stays if they already have a good pair that are back-lacing. This method isn't perfect, but it at least allows stays to be put on over the head and tightened enough to be useful. One tip: the longer you make the laces/strings, the more easily you'll be able to manipulate them, even bringing them around to the front to tighten the garment without bending your arms backwards. The stays shown in this video did not need that much length in the laces as my "helper" is always working from the back. But if you're totally on your own in dressing, add another 1.5 to 2.0m to the length of the laces (about 1-1/2 to 2 yards). Unfortunately my voice in this video is a bit scratchy at times (I was getting over a cold when this was made) but I think the demonstration of the process is fairly clear. Let me know what you think, and if this may help you with your historical dressing. The link below will take you to my Facebook page to see the video there (you might need to sign in to Facebook).
1 Comment
Bonnie Wilkens
30/12/2021 06:23:25 pm
Thank you for the instruction video on Facebook about how to fit up back lacing stays without help! I enjoyed reading your blog, too! I am not a seamstress but rather a musician who merely enjoys the aesthetic of dressing specifically in the clothing of the era in which the music I play was written. Likewise, the strange stress of the viral pandemic has driven me deeper into projects. I am learning a lot about the clothing but I feel a little "in the dark" about so many aspects of the clothing as I have only been doing the dress up thing for a year. I have stays (3 pair in fact) as I needed to experiment. I am trying to get as close to 1749 as possible as that is when the Royal Fireworks Music by Handel was rehearsed and performed at the Vauxhall Gardens in London and played on barges going down the Thames. Do you have any interest in helping me land on an appropriate gown color? I was considering something in the rosy tones or yellowish tones, as I have a blue gown already.
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AuthorPatricia Preston ('The Fashion Archaeologist'), Linguist, historian, translator, pattern-maker, former museum professional, and lover of all things costume history. Categories
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March 2024
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