1884 Velvet Ball Gown

There are few garments as complex and beautiful as the grand ball gowns of the 1870's and 1880's.  Fortunately the 1884 French fashion publication where this design appeared provided a good description of the original to help in the choice of fabrics and embellishment. 

This was a project I had wanted to make for a long time, so I was happy to receive a commission to reproduce it.  This request came from a client who was a joy to work with, as she understood and valued historical accuracy and was willing to follow my advice on materials and trim.  The result -- an almost perfect replica of the original 1884 French ball gown.  

The gown was made of a soft, flowing silk/rayon velvet in a deep plum colour, with matching silk satin contrast and drapery.  The underskirt was fashioned from cream silk shantung with tiers of reproduction Victorian lace.  The bodice was lined with ecru silk taffeta and was fully boned with "synthetic whalebone".  I underlined the long train with muslin and lined it with cream silk satin, as well as adding a tulle "pouf" under the top of the skirt to enhance the bustle silhouette.  Although the gown gives the impression of a seamless, one-piece dress, it has in fact a separate bodice and skirt. 

Altogether about 9.5 metres of 110cm wide velvet, about 5.0m of silk satin, and 1.5m of silk taffeta went into this gown -- quite an investment in materials! 

Of course the beautifully draped and softly arranged appearance of the outside of the gown belies all the structure underneath!  On my recommendation, the client commissioned me to make a "lobster cage" style tournure, made of sturdily boned, crisp cotton percale, to wear to support the shape of the gown.  Unfortunately I ran out of time to photograph the support garment, but I've included the original ca.1882 French fashion sketch of it here.  

The one element of this gown that I might have altered if I'd had the time was the "pouf" built into the underside of the train (at upper back).  It could have been larger!  Unfortunately the weight of the long train was such that it did slightly flatten the effect of the waterfall bustle at the top.  

I've wanted to reproduce this same ensemble again, but this time in an extravagant wine-red silk/rayon velvet!  This design  is on my priority list for pattern development for my proposed "Master Class" line of patterns.