1912 High-fashion Automobile Duster

Occasionally I've come across an antique French pattern in my collection that is so interesting or unique that I know I have to re-create it, and this was definitely the case with this wonderful automobile duster (coat) from early 1912, the epitome of fashionable motoring wear of the era. 

The original design was described as being in black linen with white lace -- a stylish and popular colour combination in 1912, and dramatic with the wide bands of heavy guipure lace.   For the initial sample I made from the pattern, I chose a more subdued cocoa-coloured mid weight 100% linen with a fine herringbone weave.  The weave created a subtle heathered effect in the finished garment. 

Although the basic, unlined coat is a relatively straightforward sewing project, the cut and construction is masterful and precise, like most other Edwardian and 1910's designs I've worked with, requiring careful preparation and meticulous sewing.  I am always in awe of the technical prowess of the designers of these early 20th century garments and their textile "engineering" abilities, creating garments that follow and enhance the body's form. 

The deep lace embellishment sections presented a bit of a challenge.  My solution was to combine fairly wide guipure lace with narrower lace in bands in an arrangement deep enough to match the original antique design.  In total, I used nearly 9 metres of quality wide cotton Cluny lace and over 5 metres of narrower lace to replicate the original lace designs on this coat.  

I've made two versions of this duster, the first as a sample garment to test my pattern, and the second as a custom project on commission.  Both were in medium-weight 100% linen, one the cocoa coloured herringbone weave linen, and the other a plain-woven sand colour.  I used extra-large, natural buttons as decorative closures (the actual closures were hidden snaps), on the first Duster the buttons were made of horn, on the second mother-of-pearl.  Both Dusters were lovely -- I'm not sure which I liked best.  

If you'd like to make this Duster for yourself, the pattern is now available in my Etsy shop!  Just click on the button below to go directly to the pattern listing.

PDF Sewing Pattern-1912 Auto Duster