Pattern #1912-A-003 (Section 2, Constructing the Underarm/Side/Sleeve Seam)

Section 2:  This section sets out the steps in preparing, sewing and finishing the unique all-in-one seam in this blouse which closes the underarm, side seam and sleeve seam in one operation.  

Although this procedure may seem odd, or even bizarre and difficult, it is actually quite straightforward and makes sense if you follow the instructions step by step and sew carefully and slowly.  This particular design feature first appeared in French garment patterns around 1909, but by 1912 was used almost exclusively for blouses and bodices that were cut all in one piece, and without a shoulder or armscye seam (a modified "kimono" cut). 

The obvious advantages to this clever innovation were that it drastically reduced the bulky, inelegant fit of kimono blouses under the arms, followed the line of the body more closely, and placed the side seam toward the back, slightly out of view.  It was a brilliant and masterful solution to a common problem.  Unfortunately, this technique could never lend itself to automated factory production or simple home-sewing (the original patterns were intended mainly for dressmakers), and so it disappeared by the mid-1910's. 

Please note:  Many of the photos in this section were taken from Blouse #1911-A-017, but the procedure is exactly the same for this pattern #1912-A-003.

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo) to run slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. 

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