Pattern #1911-A-052 Blouse -- Section 2: Sewing the side/underarm/sleeve seams

Section 2:  This section sets out the steps in preparing, sewing and finishing the unique all-in-one seam in this blouse which closes the underarm, side seam and sleeve seam in one operation.  

Although this procedure may seem odd, or even bizarre and difficult, it is actually not hard to do once learned, and makes sense if you follow the instructions step by step and sew carefully and slowly.  This design feature first appeared in French garment patterns around 1909, but by 1912 was used extensively for blouses and bodices that were cut all in one piece, and without a shoulder or armscye seam (a modified kimono cut, which I like to call the "Magic Bodice" for its clever ingenuity). 

The obvious advantages to this innovation were that it drastically reduced the bulky, inelegant fit of kimono blouses under the arms, followed the line of the body more closely, and placed the side seam toward the back, slightly out of view.  It also places the back of the blouse on the semi-bias, giving flexibility of fit. 

​It was a brilliant and masterful solution to a common garment design problem.  Unfortunately, this technique did not lend itself well to automated factory production nor to simple home-sewing (the original patterns were intended mainly for dressmakers), and so it disappeared by the mid-1910's.  By that time, kimono sleeves were going out of fashion in any event, giving way to the familiar set-in sleeve. 

Please note:  The photos in this section were taken from Blouse #1911-A-017, but the procedure is exactly the same for this pattern #1911-A-052.  Depending upon which side of the blouse you begin, the 3 portions of the seam will be done in a different order.

Click on "Play" (top left of 1st photo below) to run the slideshow; pause at any time.  Click on a thumbnail to view an individual photo.  Hover right or left on the slideshow string to fast forward or reverse. 

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