Sometimes costume historians need to have fun too!

This has been such a devastatingly sad and bizarre year, hasn't it?  The pandemic we'd hoped would never happen has profoundly changed lives around the world, and left so many dead.  As a creative person, keeping inspired and motivated during this moving horror has been a challenge, as I'm sure it has for so many.  Yet it's been that ability to turn to creative work that has helped me, and I hope others, maintain our sanity and sense of fun. 

Nonetheless, what's been going on all around us can't help but have an effect.  During this past year, I've found myself ignoring projects I should be working on, procrastinating over others, having difficulty applying myself consistently on many, but then suddenly diving into a flurry of activity on tangential things.  This is what seems to have happened lately; I found myself drawn to complete two ca. 1770-75 gowns, both from the same pattern I devised, both in cotton (which I rarely work with), and both almost entirely hand-sewn.   Both were in a sense rather pointless projects, since I doubt I'll be going anywhere in them anytime soon, but both gave me joy to make. 

Binge-watching old Star Trek episodes on Netflix provided hours of silly entertainment in the late evenings while I stitched away on one gown, then the next.  I almost began a third (and fourth!) gown -- had all the fabric laid out and yardage planned -- before I stopped myself and realized I should probably try to get back to focusing on pattern-drafting!  A nasty kitchen mishap in March had left me with a partly numb forefinger on my right hand, which was a good way to avoid pattern drafting -- until now.   I have most of my control of that finger back, so it's time to return to my "real" work. 
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So here are some photos of the two recently finished cotton gowns, along with a video just for fun!  By the way, over the next few weeks I'll be finishing work on the pattern for this 1770-75 gown design, along with a somewhat different ca.1760-65 gown (see my blog post on the "Countess Howe" pink gown).  Both designs will be included in one pattern, along with several accessories.  I'll be sure to announce here once the pattern is available!  (Click on "Read More" below, to continue)

The first version, in cotton with a beautiful deep Turkey red ground.  
This fabric, a fortuitous find, is apparently a French reproduction.  It was only 115cm (45") wide, so it presented some problems to solve in terms of arranging the various skirt panels.  In the end, I decided to use a full width panel for the centre back (a "long-back" English gown style, with integral bodice and skirt panel).  This 115cm width meant that more -- and deeper -- bodice back tucks needed to be made, but that also produced more fullness in the centre back of the skirt. 

The petticoat is made of golden-yellow silk taffeta, a dupioni silk that nonetheless has a very tight weave and very few slubs, making it "passable" for an 18thC. impression.  The handkerchief is fine cotton lawn with a woven shadow-stripe pattern, edged with vintage cotton lace from my collection. 

The bodice of the gown closes in front with hooks and eyes, and with hidden lacing run through eyelets in panels sewn into the linen lining.  

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The second version, in the Nova Scotia tartan, in a small scale sett, in yarn-woven colours. 
This fabric was a chance find a number of months ago, in a little shop that specializes in quilting cottons.  I'd put this cotton tartan away (for some future rainy day), but after making the red cotton gown, it suddenly seemed like a logical sequitur. 

Fortunately, it was wide (152cm), which meant I was able to get the entire gown easily out of the 6.0m I'd purchased, by using half-width panels for all but the bodice sections.  As it turned out, I ended up liking this gown more than I thought I would.  Normally I tend to prefer warm colours, but there is something very attractive about the deep-sea blue that's unique to the official Nova Scotia tartan.  Some day when I can afford it, I'll buy the "real thing" in wool and make a winter version! 

The petticoat and the handkerchief are the same as shown with the red cotton gown above. 

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And last but not least, just for fun...  My attempt at trying to get a few photographs of the blue tartan gown on a real person.  I'll be needing to try again, but I hope this adds a smile to your day, especially if you've ever tried to get good pictures in  less than perfect weather!  [P.S. Turn on the audio for the full effect :-)]